Tuesday, April 8, 2014

Look, I Made This: Waistband Knit Maxi Skirt

Abby's finished skirt! 
I made a rollover-waistband maxi skirt in January, which can be found in this post, and I like it, I really do, but I kept thinking that there could be another way to do this.  And, duh, there is.  The foldover maxi skirt is much more fitted and tight (not like sexy, just...well, whatever. ha), where this waistband skirt is looser, more flowy, and generally probably more flattering for most body types.  I made one for myself shortly after I made the foldover one, but I casually forgot to photograph it which makes blogging about it difficult.  So when my bestie, Abby, asked if I could make her a few skirts for her growing baby bump (D'AWWWW) I thought it would be the perfect time to show you guys what's up!

Unfortunately, I don't have a photo of this skirt on a person (since even pregnant Abby is smaller than me), but I think you can see the way it gathers at the top and approximately what it will look like on.  There are plenty of pictures of the process, and as always, if you have any questions, feel free to comment!

Materials:
2 yards of knit material (you may need more, depending on your size and particularly your height...read through to see if you need more fabric to make it longer!...I'm short, ha)
Ruler/tape measure (I use both)
Scissors
Pins
Chalk or marking pen
Matching/coordinating thread
Elastic thread
Basic sewing notions - including ball point needle for knit fabrics
Here it only shows the elastic thread, but know
you need regular thread, too! 
First, lay your fabric out flat to measure and cut the waistband.  Cut it so the stretchier part of the fabric will go the length of the waistband, particularly if you are using a knit that is not as stretchy (this one was like that).  This makes a 3 inch waistband.  So, measure around your body where you want your skirt to sit (waist, hips, high-waist, etc.).  Now mark a rectangle that is that measurement PLUS 2 inches by 8 inches.  For me that was 32"x8".  Cut it out.  I just cut a straight 8"strip off the top of the skirt and then cut that down to 32", that way the remaining fabric is even.
You probably can't see, but there is a purple
line at the 8" mark. 
And cut down to make a rectangle. 
Fold the waistband piece over, wrong-sides together, and flatten out.  Pin it about the middle of the fabric, just to hold it together.  Now measure 3" from the folded edge all the way across, marking as you go. Set aside.
Here I used chalk since it was on the right side
of the fabric and the pen wouldn't show. 
Now, take your remaining fabric and on the edge that you cut the waistband off, sew all the way along it with your elastic thread.  If you've never used elastic thread, don't be intimidated! It's easy.  So all you do is wind a bobbin with the elastic thread (by hand! don't pull it tight, pull it just enought to wrap, not stretching it out at all) and then just use regular thread normally.  Use a zig-zag stitch, I usually adjust mine to make it shorter and wider stitches because I know my machine likes that better.  As you stitch (approximately 3/4" from the edge of the fabric), the elastic thread will pull and bunch up the fabric - this is good. You will end up with 2 yards of fabric scrunched up on one end to only be about 1 yard, or so.
When using elastic thread on the bobbin, always make
sure the fabric is right side up or your elastic will show.
Ta-da, instant gathers! 
Now, lay that out straight and pull everything flat.  Lay your waistband piece over the ruffled edge of the fabric, right-sides together (your waistband piece doesn't have a "right-side," but you understand), lining up the elastic stitch line with the chalk mark on your waistband.  If you're making it this size you probably won't have to stretch the skirt piece much (if at all), just make sure that the ends meet up.  If you're making it smaller than this then you will have extra fabric on the end, no big deal. If you're making it bigger, just stretch it out to match the waistband length, being careful not to stretch the waistband itself.  This may require extra hands or heavy items to hold it down.
It's hard to see because of the busy pattern, but the waistband is laying
on top of the ruffled edge of the skirt piece. 
Maybe a little clearer...
Carefully, pin the waistband to the skirt piece, making sure to keep the chalk mark & elastic line together - I used a lot of pins. 

Now, sew! Be sure to replace your elastic thread bobbin with one wound with coordinating thread.  Carefully, without stretching anything (you want to keep the ruffled edge under the waistband), sew along the elastic line using a stretch or zig-zag stitch.
I sewed directly over the elastic.
Cut off excess fabric and fold waistband up.

Now, fold your skirt right-sides together and measure & mark your waistband to your specific size, pin together.  Sew on that line using a heavy-duty stitch or multiple stitches, remembering to backstitch at the beginning and end of the stitch.  Sew together the entire waistband.

Now, your skirt fabric may have some excess sticking out below the waistband.  Sew together from right on the seam (backstitch!) diagonally to the edge of the two fabrics, then continue sewing all the way down until the two sides are completely sewn together.  You can pin the ends together if it will help you keep them straight, I just went slow and held the ends together as I went.
See the line at the top that continues diagonally out
to meet the edge of the fabric? 
Put it on! (Or don't, if you're me) Measure how long you need it/want it and cut it off!  As always, knit doesn't fray, so no need to finish the edges or hem unless you're into stuff like that, hehe.  I left these long so Abby can adjust as she sees fit.  And there you have it, a flowy, maxi-skirt!

Maybe Abby can send me some photos of it on so I can update my post :)

PS: Isn't this fabric, gorgeous? Joann's!

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